city fare
Feb. 11, 2005

Off to a good (and tasty) start
by Lisa Waterman Gray

It was a holiday Friday morning and my husband, Mark, had managed to schedule his workday so the four of us could share breakfast. Apparently, everyone else had the same idea. We jockeyed for parking places and entered the densely packed LePeep Restaurant, 7936 Quivira Rd. in Lenexa.

Despite the crowds, the dining experience was very satisfying — from the individual carafes of coffee, decaf and water that graced our table to the whipped butter and the piping hot, delicious food that arrived with surprising speed. We ordered, we talked and we dined — all in quick succession — thanks to LePeep’s practiced efficiency.

Jessica ordered the Lumberjack ($7.15), a huge offering that included eight-inch-wide fluffy pancakes, thick-cut bacon with just the right amount of crispness (sausage is available as a substitute), and two eggs, over easy. Stephanie’s Belgian Waffle Combo ($7.15) featured a huge, light waffle, accompanied by scrambled eggs and bacon. She generously doused it in syrup that had just the right sweetness and thickness.

My Eggs Benedict ($7.95) wowed everyone at the table. A smooth, light Hollandaise sauce topped two poached eggs of exceptional texture, a huge piece of tender, succulent ham and two English muffin halves.

A nice twist on home fries or hash browns, the accompanying Peasant Potatoes’ were small six-sided chunks with a bit of skin and a deftly applied seasoning. Although I liked the cinnamon-sugar sweetness of “Mom’s” Sassy Apples’, I would have preferred them served warm.

A Spinach and Bacon omelet featured at Le Peep. (photo by Sam Garcia)

Mark’s The Hen Pen’ ($5.99) featured two eggs. Sausage, Peasant Potatoes and two English muffin halves completed the offering. Only the slightly dry sausage fell a bit short of expectations. Mark also tried Biscuits and Gravy ($4.35), which featured a light, airy biscuit that was split and smothered in peppery, thick sausage gravy with a sprinkling of chives.

With such large helpings and small tables, we found ourselves bumping elbows several times during the meal, a situation that might prove uncomfortable during a breakfast meeting. I refilled my cup with steaming aromatic hazelnut coffee several times and craved an insulated mug that would hold the heat.

Mark and I returned to LePeep on a cold Saturday morning in January. We settled in amidst the lodge-like setting and perused the menu.

A steady stream of customers flowed easily through the restaurant at 9 a.m. And, when a toddler at a nearby table left a mess of crumbs on the floor, large enough for two children, the staff whisked it away in a matter of minutes.

Once again, we sat, talked and dined in quick succession. Carafes of decaf and lemon-laced iced tea arrived almost immediately.

My Le Petit Toast ($5.25) featured two slabs of delicate custard-dipped French toast, sprinkled with powdered sugar and accompanied by two strips of lean bacon that were cooked to perfection.

I chose a side of strawberry sauce characterized by small strawberry chunks swimming in their own juice. As with the apples on our previous visit, I would have preferred the sauce warm, rather than refrigerator cold. I also ordered two scrambled eggs, which arrived hot and moist.

Mark’s Down Home Sausage Pie ($7.60) was a delicious combination of “hawg-wild” sausage, gravy, a generous helping of melted cheese, tender-crisp green pepper bits and two basted eggs, atop a large bed of Peasant Potatoes.

The dish came with an English muffin. Mark thought the muffin “peaks” should have been browner and crispier, and that there should be more sausage and veggies in the dish, for the price.

LePeep’s specialty omelet, that day, was called the “Miss Piggy.” It featured bacon, ham and sausage. Regular omelet choices include Spinach and Bacon ($7.45), Spanish ($6.55), and Classic ($6.99, or $5.75 for a smaller version).

For those who are watching their waists, LePeep offers four “lite” omelettes, made with egg whites. For those with a smaller appetite, there are several bagel options, a Breakfast Banana Split, a Pancake Sandwich, Aspen Fruit Crepes or one of several oatmeal or versions.

With prices from $1.59 to $3.29 for 12 ounces, or $2.09 to $3.79 for 16 ounces, the restaurant’s Espresso Bar offers cappuccinos, lattes, and Americanos, as well as a Chocolate Kiss and a Hammerhead. Fruit smoothies ($3.15-$3.65) have names like Strawberry Fields, Caribbean Cruise and Tropicolada.

Can’t quite get yourself up for breakfast — or breakfast food? Lunch at LePeep features crepes, and turkey and grilled chicken salad, as well as several pasta and green salads. You can also order a huge burger, a Panini, chicken breast, Ultimate B.L.T. or Philly Cheese Steak sandwich, to name a few.

I’m sure they are all very good. But, for my money, I’ll choose breakfast from a breakfast expert any day of the week and enjoy every last mouthwatering bite.

Le Peep

7936 Quivira Rd

Lenexa, KS.

913-492-6644

BREAKFAST/LUNCH: Mon. – Fri., 6:30 a.m. to 2:00 p.m.

Sat. , – Sun. 7:00 p.m. to 2:30p.m.

(photo by Sam Garcia)

Ratings: (out of four stars)

FOOD ***1/2
SERVICE ***1/2
ATMOSPHERE ***1/2
PRICE $

Key: $-under $10 • $$-$10 to $20 • $$$-over $20

fork, knife, spoon


              
              
                 

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